Sunday, 11 October 2015

Half Way!

Day Twenty Five - Coverack to Mawnan 23.9km (14.9 miles).
Time on route 6:55hrs, walking time 5:45hrs.

Saturday 10 October 2015
Day 25 map
This is the first time on the path I've ever resorted to hiring a taxi. I've always tried to plan the route using public transport but, to be honest, had already failed due to the paucity of buses and train services in North Devon (my family helped out). This time I'd decided to park at Helford Passage and catch a cab round to Coverack, staying at the delightful Youth Hostel there.   The price of that and the taxi was less than a B&B in Helston plus buses with their awkward timetables. A win win.

I arrived Friday night at the Youth Hostel and when I drew my curtains Saturday morning discovered a wonderful view.
15 10 10 Room with a view
It was an overcast and windy day, but dry. Coverack looked a little grey when I left it but still beautiful.
15 10 10 Day 25 1 Coverack
The first part of the walk heads along raised beaches caused by the last interglacial period.
15 10 10 Day 25 2 Raised beaches (1)
Although it was early October, and I'd had a big breakfast at the Youth Hostel, there was still room for a snack or two enroute.
15 10 10 Day 25 3 Dean Quarries (2)
Dean Quarry loomed in the greyness.
15 10 10 Day 25 3 Dean Quarries (1)
I read in Gillan Creek that there are plans to revive it; to extend the pontoon and bring back heavy machinery to this area. Needless to say it hasn't met with a big thumbs up from the locals.
15 10 10 Day 25 3 Dean Quarries (3)
15 10 10 Day 25 3 Dean Quarries (5)
A sign for a short person.
15 10 10 Day 25 3 Dean Quarries (4)
Another raised beach.
15 10 10 Day 25 4 Rosenithon (1)
The path diverts from the coast line a few times around this area. The SWCP Assocation are trying to gain access to the more coastal routes but to no avail yet. So I headed inland around Rosenithon. A pretty village.
15 10 10 Day 25 4 Rosenithon (3)
And a cool play pen/retreat in someone's garden.
15 10 10 Day 25 4 Rosenithon (5)
Any idea what this is? The pronged fork part was not attached to the rest.
15 10 10 Day 25 4 Rosenithon (2)
There were quite a few stretches of road walking which I never mind, as long as they are not extensive.
15 10 10 Day 25 4 Rosenithon (6)
And, yup, pretty soon I would be walking down a mysterious covered path with flickers of daylight peeping through.
15 10 10 Day 25 4 Rosenithon (7)
I arrived promptly at Porthallow, 1050. I had hoped to stop for a coffee and cake at the pub but it didn't open until midday. And the local cafe was "2 minutes up the car" so I didn't linger. I had wondered if I'd miss the halfway marker to celebrate my 50% achievement. I needn't have worried I'd fail to spot it.  Wow - halfway round in 2 years and I've given myself 5 years to complete this.  All going well :-)
15 10 10 Day 25 5 Porthallow (1)
Golly - with gardens like this doesn't it just make you want to give up your job and move here?
15 10 10 Day 25 5 Porthallow (4)
I walked past the National Coastwatch Institute lookout at Nare Point. I have a lot of time for this voluntary-run organisation. I left a donation in their wee tin and waved at the duty officers.
15 10 10 Day 25 6 Nare Point Look Out
I arrived at Gillan Creek 2 hours after low tide. I knew I had little chance of making the shortcut across the creek to St Anthony: and I wasn't even sure if it was 'allowed' in the Ruth-purist-book as it wasn't the official route.
15 10 10 Day 25 7 Gillan Creek (2)
It wasn't a hard decision. I could see no evidence of any stepping stones so trudged up through Gillywartha, and fields full of high corn-on-the-cob which dwarfed me. And then back to the head of the creek at Manaccan.
15 10 10 Day 25 7 Gillan Creek (4)
This property's garden must flood frequently. You can see the blue portholes in their garden wall allowing water to flood back out of their garden into the creek. Needless to say their turf will not win any gardening awards soon.

It was a delightful stroll amongst the trees on the northside of the Creek to St Anthony-in-Meneage. This occupies what was probably one of the earliest Christian sites in Cornwall. Meneage means 'land of monks'.
15 10 10 Day 25 8 St Anthony in Meneage (1)
I took the official route to the tip of Dennis Head managing to miss both the square Royalist fortification and any other semblance of view due to the high undergrowth.

And then it was a stroll through more woods into Helford.  As I'd skipped morning coffee it was great to fall into the Shipwrights Arms for a late lunch.
15 10 10 Day 25 9 Helford (4)
Calling the ferry was fun. Look.  You have to open the board and then...
15 10 10 Day 25 9 Helford (1)
Now this made me laugh!
15 10 10 Day 25 9 Helford (5)
The bat-boat arrived really quickly and I was sped across the river to Helford Passage.
15 10 10 Day 25 9 Helford (2)
Although my car was just up the road I wanted to carry on walking, after all it was only 1500. So I headed off towards Mawnan taking another look back at the quaint Helford Passage.
15 10 10 Day 25 10 Helford Passage (3)
And very soon I had the path to myself which is exactly how I like it. Just me, the sea, the wind, the sun (if it feels like showing itself) and space.
15 10 10 Day 25 10 Helford Passage (4)
I ended up coming off the path at Mawnan and missing the bus to Helford Passage from Mawnan Smith, so I simply just walked back to the car.  No great shakes. I'd had a wonderful day and was halfway round. You can't beat that.

1 comment:

  1. I would suggest that although you are halfway, in terms of difficulty of access from local transport you are now on much the easier half. Dad.