Day Thirty - Par to Polperro 22.6km (14.1 miles).
Time on route 7:05hrs, walking time 6:20hrs.
Tuesday 07 June 2016
My back was stiff and sore this morning so I decided to see how far I'd get. I started off at Par Sands and after winding through the back of Par Beach it was a good stretch of sand across Par Sands. Needless to say I was relieved when I moved onto more solid ground with the track around the back of the beach, and then it was an upwards climb towards Polkerris.
It was a beautiful day to be on the path.
Polkerris appeared quickly. Another pretty unspoilt harbour.
I didn't linger but pushed on up and out of the cove towards Gribbin Head.
The 26 metre daymark is unmissable and was built by Trinity House to distinguish it from other South Cornish headlands.
Dropping down you enter Polridmouth Beach which is thought to be the beach that Daphne du Maurier's Rebecca is based on ('Mandeley' being Menabilly Barton which is close by).
I bet this well appointed dwelling goes for a packet.
Once around Gribbin Head the Fowey estuary appeared.
Wow, it really is quite breath taking isn't it?
I bumped into the start of the Saints Way here. So acorns and crosses shared posts for a while.
As per many of these quaint and beautiful Cornish villages, they have been invaded by rich 'outsiders' who have either retired in the South West or bought a second home here. It is a contentious subject and pushes house prices up significantly forcing locals out. And then people wonder why there is no-one to service their cooker, or clean their house/car(s)? Anyway, I digress, but seeing these two cars side-by-side, obviously owned by someone who had enough spare money to buy expensive vehicles and then personalised number plates with the left over cash, made me think.
And, now I remember, I saw a house on the Monday that was being renovated and had a sign outside stating "Joe and Liz are having an amazingly beautiful new kitchen and lounge fitted by Howdens!" Lucky Joe and Liz to have a spare house being renovated whilst they live elsewhere. Seemed a little pretentious to me.
Back to the walk. Passed these creatures in a garden. Think they are something to do with Wind in the Willows but not 100% sure.
So pretty. Makes you want to move here :p
I got a little confused with where the Polruan Ferry left from as its Fowey departure point moves depending on the time of day. First thing/evening it's one location and for the chunk of the day it's another. I had researched them but got them the wrong way round in my head but didn't take too long to find it. The price had gone up too. It was £1.80 on the web. £2.00 in reality.
It's a short hop across the river. Poor Mary was worried that she'd left something on the stove.
Alighting at Polruan.
I stopped for a short break in the Luggar Inn and then headed onwards. My back was not in good shape but my head overruled as it was such a glorious day. It was a shame to waste it by giving in to a bit of pain.
A few favourite things in one photo. Old road sign + Coast Path signpost + benchmark.
Yes, a great day to be on the path. And a clear reminder of the direction of the prevailing wind.
Lantic Bay soon loomed.
The leg from Par to Polperro was branded "easy then strenuous" in the guide book which is exactly the wrong way for any day's walk, especially when you are becoming less abled with each step. And, indeed, the path upped the ante on the angle of the ascents and descents.
I muttered and winced but kept going. By the time I spied Polperro I was limping but I was determined to get there: not that I had a lot of choice as I had to finish somewhere with a bus/semblance of public transport. As I hobbled into Polperro I spotted this Victorian outdoor pool on the cliff - magnificent! [Bottom right of photo].
And then into Polperro itself.
Polperro harbour: the village on jigsaws, calendars and fudge packets the country over.
I was an hour early for the bus to Polruan. Bus to Polruan. Wait for ferry. Walk to bus stop. Bus to Par. I cracked. I rang for a cab. I figured it wasn't going to cost oodles more to take a taxi than do the three legged public transport solution. And I hurt. And a cab was going to get me to my car over an hour earlier. And why am I justifying this?!
So I whizzed back to Par quickly, although we had to await the Bodinnick car ferry which I didn't mind at all.
I haven't been over this since about 2000 so it was time for a revisit.
Time on route 7:05hrs, walking time 6:20hrs.
Tuesday 07 June 2016
My back was stiff and sore this morning so I decided to see how far I'd get. I started off at Par Sands and after winding through the back of Par Beach it was a good stretch of sand across Par Sands. Needless to say I was relieved when I moved onto more solid ground with the track around the back of the beach, and then it was an upwards climb towards Polkerris.
It was a beautiful day to be on the path.
Polkerris appeared quickly. Another pretty unspoilt harbour.
I didn't linger but pushed on up and out of the cove towards Gribbin Head.
The 26 metre daymark is unmissable and was built by Trinity House to distinguish it from other South Cornish headlands.
Dropping down you enter Polridmouth Beach which is thought to be the beach that Daphne du Maurier's Rebecca is based on ('Mandeley' being Menabilly Barton which is close by).
I bet this well appointed dwelling goes for a packet.
Once around Gribbin Head the Fowey estuary appeared.
Wow, it really is quite breath taking isn't it?
I bumped into the start of the Saints Way here. So acorns and crosses shared posts for a while.
As per many of these quaint and beautiful Cornish villages, they have been invaded by rich 'outsiders' who have either retired in the South West or bought a second home here. It is a contentious subject and pushes house prices up significantly forcing locals out. And then people wonder why there is no-one to service their cooker, or clean their house/car(s)? Anyway, I digress, but seeing these two cars side-by-side, obviously owned by someone who had enough spare money to buy expensive vehicles and then personalised number plates with the left over cash, made me think.
And, now I remember, I saw a house on the Monday that was being renovated and had a sign outside stating "Joe and Liz are having an amazingly beautiful new kitchen and lounge fitted by Howdens!" Lucky Joe and Liz to have a spare house being renovated whilst they live elsewhere. Seemed a little pretentious to me.
Back to the walk. Passed these creatures in a garden. Think they are something to do with Wind in the Willows but not 100% sure.
So pretty. Makes you want to move here :p
I got a little confused with where the Polruan Ferry left from as its Fowey departure point moves depending on the time of day. First thing/evening it's one location and for the chunk of the day it's another. I had researched them but got them the wrong way round in my head but didn't take too long to find it. The price had gone up too. It was £1.80 on the web. £2.00 in reality.
It's a short hop across the river. Poor Mary was worried that she'd left something on the stove.
Alighting at Polruan.
I stopped for a short break in the Luggar Inn and then headed onwards. My back was not in good shape but my head overruled as it was such a glorious day. It was a shame to waste it by giving in to a bit of pain.
A few favourite things in one photo. Old road sign + Coast Path signpost + benchmark.
Yes, a great day to be on the path. And a clear reminder of the direction of the prevailing wind.
Lantic Bay soon loomed.
The leg from Par to Polperro was branded "easy then strenuous" in the guide book which is exactly the wrong way for any day's walk, especially when you are becoming less abled with each step. And, indeed, the path upped the ante on the angle of the ascents and descents.
I muttered and winced but kept going. By the time I spied Polperro I was limping but I was determined to get there: not that I had a lot of choice as I had to finish somewhere with a bus/semblance of public transport. As I hobbled into Polperro I spotted this Victorian outdoor pool on the cliff - magnificent! [Bottom right of photo].
And then into Polperro itself.
Polperro harbour: the village on jigsaws, calendars and fudge packets the country over.
I was an hour early for the bus to Polruan. Bus to Polruan. Wait for ferry. Walk to bus stop. Bus to Par. I cracked. I rang for a cab. I figured it wasn't going to cost oodles more to take a taxi than do the three legged public transport solution. And I hurt. And a cab was going to get me to my car over an hour earlier. And why am I justifying this?!
So I whizzed back to Par quickly, although we had to await the Bodinnick car ferry which I didn't mind at all.
I haven't been over this since about 2000 so it was time for a revisit.
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