All things English and Coast-Pathy

Day Forty - Brixham to Maidencombe 25.9 km (16.1 miles).
Time on route 7:50hrs, walking time 6:20hrs.

Sunday 16 July 2017

For day 40 and day 41 I was joined on the route by my business partner, Martin.  He is South African so is used to large scenery: the vastness of the Karoo, the huge mountains of the Drakensburg, the gigantic waves rolling in off the Indian Ocean in Durban. I figured the South West Coast Path would be a change with its hidden coves, shady woodland paths, cliff top meadows and cosy tea shops.

We caught the train to Paignton then a bus to Brixham where we picked up the route. Brixham was a little greyer than last time but still sparkling and pleasant.

A creative mosaic on the way out.

And what looks to be a Banksy.

The first cove we came to was Churston: the first of many sharp descents and steep rises of the day.

We slightly lost our way by the golf club.  How embarrassing for two chartered surveyors although, to be fair, I was hogging the map so it was all my fault.

Broadsands is an attractive sandy beach enhanced by a medley of stripy beach huts.

The first of many hundreds we saw on Sunday.

We soon came across the Paignton to Kingswear railway and were rewarded by a steam train huffing past Goodrington Sands.


Our route then took us past the conglomerations of Paignton and Torquay.  I felt somewhat overdressed in my walking boots, with my unkempt windswept hair, stomping past all the holiday makers.

Paignton Pier.

Although tourist and shopping crowds aren't my favourite SWCP scene it does provide decent refreshment opportunities and we enjoyed a late lunch in Torquay.  Late because I hate breaking the day too early - I like to be at least halfway before I allow myself (or any of my poor walking companions) a stop.

We climbed out of Torbay past Hope's Nose and turned back to look at Hope Cove.

What beautiful foliage-covered walls and archway near Black Head.

Although I'd only been able to find accommodation at Babbacombe I wanted to press on so that day 41 wasn't too long.  So we pushed on up past Withy Point grabbing a welcome coke at a tea shop that was just closing.

Oddicombe Beach followed soon after and I loved the walkways.

I hadn't realised it had a furnicular so we paused to watch a swap over of these cantilevered rail cars.

We stopped at Maidencombe and fell into the Thatched Tavern at 1815 only to find they had closed the bar 15 minutes earlier!  We must have looked desperate (it was a hot day) and they kindly served us a cold wine/beer as we had 45 minutes to wait for our bus back down to Babbacombe.

As ever, it was a wonderful day on the coast path.  And, SWCP, not a bad show-and-tell at all for your visiting South African.  Not only did you deliver the expected coves, glades, meadows, beaches and pier, but you threw in a steam train and a funicular railway.  Nice one.

Birthday Sun, Sea and Strawberries

Day Thirty Nine - Dartmouth to Brixham 17.3km (10.7 miles).
Time on route 6:20hrs, walking time 5:10hrs.

Sunday 25 June 2017

It was my birthday last Sunday and what better treat than to walk the coast path with my daughter.  She was more than happy to have a stroll with me but baulked a little at the idea of 17 km.  This is from a girl who has walked 45 miles in 2 days with Ten Tors so I figured it was all bluff and bluster.

We drove to Brixham, parked up and headed down to the bus stop.  Halfway down I double-checked that Riona had the map.  "What map Mum?" she enquired.  "I left a map in the car but I thought that was just to get us here".  Needless to say I achieved a record running rate, for a 48 year old in walking boots, uphill, to retrieve said map.

We caught the bus to Kingswear, had coffee at the station (very retro and quaint) before heading off.

First things first, a nicely painted benchmark.

We headed south east towards the Inner Froward Point, looking back to enjoy our last views of the Dart Estuary.

Opposite Dartmouth Castle are similar defensive structures on the Kingswear side. This is the once heavily fortified Brownstone Battery.

A very vertiginous path down from the Battery.

We turned east at Froward Cove and the offshore rocks of Shooter, Shag and Mew came into view.

As soon did Sharkham Point.

It was a day full of undulations - 'strenuous' according to the guide book.  We had periods of flat but similar period of steep descents and ascents.  This is looking back to our descent to Scabbacombe Sands.  It looks quite mild on the photo but trust me, I would have struggled if it was wet and slippery.

We stopped for strawberries on a bench above Long Sands then descended again to Man Sands (I'm still keeping my eye out for Woman Sands).

Such lovely views.

We arrived somewhat hot and bothered at Berry Head as the sun was hotter than we'd anticipated.  We spent a happy 45 minutes in the Guardhouse Cafe then wandered up to Berry Head.  I knew what to look for on the way as I'd bagged this one before in 2012 - TP1334.  And, kerchung, there it was.  A little less purple than previously but still lovable and huggable.


Walking east to the Head of the Berry you reach the look out, with it's lovely bench mark.


And then the lighthouse. At which point I was photo-bombed.

We set off the last km or so around Torbay and down into Brixham.

A beautiful harbour.  Looking forward to setting off here on my next leg.

Planes, Trains and Automobiles

Day Thirty Eight - Stoke Fleming to Dartmouth 7.7km (4.8 miles).
Time on route 1:35hrs, walking time 1:35hrs.

Monday 10 April 2017

The title shows my age (it was a film I watched as a teenager) but today felt a bit like this.  To get to my start at Stoke Fleming I caught the train to Paignton, the bus to Kingswear, the foot ferry to Dartmouth and another bus down to Stoke Fleming.  So door to door it was a 3 hour journey.  I had a short goal today as wanted to 'tidy up' my last walk which was a half day from Torcross to Stoke Fleming.  So hardly a challenge but it was still good to be out by the coast.

The spring flowers are prolific this time of year: these were growing off the side of a wall.

And it didn't take long before the Dart estuary came into view.

Beautiful spring path.

There is oodles of military history at Dartmouth with its extensive maritime defensive past.

Dartmouth Castle was built in 1388 to defend the English against French raids and was extended many times since then (more here).  It now has a more peaceful cafe with a wonderful view.

The Royal Navy trains all its officers here at the Britannia Naval College, sited up on the hill (in the background of this photo).

The estuary is buzzing with yachts, ships, dinghies, kayaks and ferries.  The car ferry between Dartmouth and Kingswear is expertly nudged too and fro by a tug.

Just south of Dartmouth pontoon the path dips down into Bayards Cove Fort; the first time the path has actually traversed through a tudor building from my recollection.


I stopped and had a late lunch in the sun overlooking the river and Kingswear before heading back on the passenger ferry (and bus and train, you know the score).

Against the Wind to Blackpool

Day Thirty Seven - Torcross to Stoke Fleming 8.7km (5.3 miles).
Time on route 3:00hrs, walking time 2:30hrs.

Thursday 19 January 2017

It was a short day today as I needed to get home but I wanted to get some miles under my feet as, otherwise, the next leg is ~25km which is a tough one to manage with short daylight hours and public transport.  I drove to Stoke Fleming, parked up, and took the bus back down to Torcross.  These bus drivers are quite awesome, navigating their large double decker buses down these narrow roads.

At the south end of Slapton Ley is a US Sherman tank, one of the memorials along Slapton Sands to commemorate the many (mainly American) lives that were lost during Exercise Tiger in 1944.

The wind was from the north east and strong so I wrapped up well and marched the 4km up the sands. No photos when it's windy dear reader(s).

The path then headed off inland and, with the low sun behind me, it make a striking shot.

This is turning the other way looking south.

I climbed up high criss-crossing the A379 getting slightly lost near Strete where the signs disappeared and my map didn't reflect the rerouting of the last couple of years.  Anyway, a little wandering up and down a field didn't hurt and I was back on path looking down on Blackpool Sands.

Nearing the beach is a pretty stone bridge.

There was a wonderful teashop at Blackpool Sands, the Venus Cafe.  Just south of the Sands is a naturist beach.  Not that I saw much activity on a cold, windy day on January.  I mentioned to a friend recently that the cafe was wonderful to which he remarked "Nude beaches always have the best cafes".  I didn't ask him how he knew but it made me smile.  Perhaps once I've finished the Coast Path I should test his theory?

Anyway, a final push up, across the A379 again, to Stoke Fleming and the end of another day (half day) on the path.