Thursday 4 April 2019

More Dorset Loveliness - of Crumbly Cliffs and Killer Climbs

Day Forty Nine - Arish Mell to Langton Matravers 21.1 km (13.1 miles).
Time on route 7:00hrs, walking time 6:30hrs.


Sunday 24 March 2019
Today started as a reverse of yesterday afternoon.  Our AirBnB host dropped us down at East Lulworth, detouring a little to avoid all the trainspotters who had descended to watch The Flying Scotsman pass. We soon hopped back down to the path through the range avoiding the big scary cows (OK, that was me).   Plenty of evidence of firing practise from the worn out targets.
It was a stiff climb up from Arish Mell but the view down into Worbarrow Bay was lovely.
Despite this being a remote and rugged stretch of the path, once again we were sharing it with runners. These were participants in the Jurassic Coast Votwo, a mere 3 marathons in 3 days.  So less speedy than many of the runners from the previous day, but considering they were on their third foray it was testament to their fitness they were still trogging past us.  
Looking back on Worbarrow Bay from the east.
The one and only semi-populated spot of the leg was Kimmeridge.  The bay is in a marine Special Area of Conservation and is home to the The Wild Seas Centre.  The other attraction, for me, was a toilet block - the only one this day.  Such luxuries. :-)

Kimmeridge oil field has been mined by a 'nodding donkey' since 1961 now pumping about 65 barrels of oil per day.
Once out of Kimmeridge Bay you walk past the Clavell Tower, built in ~1830 and relocated 25 m inland brick by brick a decade ago due to the eroding cliffs.  
Cliff erosion is a constant risk around here and there are numerous diversions to the path, for very good reason.  Even the non-diverted parts require caution and common sense to avert a quick end to one's coast path expedition. 

The geology continued to be awesome.
And the tough descents and ascents continued.  This was the view before descending into Chapman's Pool.
We continued the plod around the cliff top towards St Aldhelm's Head.  Then the killer steps arrived.
181 steps down.
And 219 up.  To be precise.

Once my breath and I were back as one, I played with the shadows.
Me in the flesh.
At the top of St Aldhelm's Head is a look out station and the site of Telecommunications Research Establishment from the 1940s.  It is marked by this beautiful sculpture.
There is heavy quarrying around this coastline and we crossed a quarry at Winspit.
Then a weary couple of kilometres to Dancing Ledge where we came off path up to Langton Matravers.
Just one more day.  Under 20 km to go.  It's going to be emotional.

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