Friday, 22 April 2016

Roseland Peninsula

Day Twenty Seven - St Mawes to Porthole 22.0km (13.7 miles).
Time on route 6:45hrs, walking time 6:15hrs.

Monday 18 April 2016
Day 27 map
I have recently changed employment and am far more flexible with my working patterns.  So instead of cramming a walk into a weekend I was able to enjoy a more leisurely affair mid week accompanied by my daughter who is home from university.

I paused my SWCP trek at St Mawes last November and couldn't easily restart until the Place Ferry opened again at Easter.  This is the ferry across from St Mawes to St Anthony's peninsula.   My public transport hub has shifted to St Austell and our best option was to park at Probus and take the bus to St Mawes.

We didn't have long to enjoy St Mawes as the ferry was just about to leave.  However this old style of garage interested me.  And, as it turned out, I saw quite a few further around the Roseland Peninsula over the next couple of days.
16 04 18  Day 27 (1) St Mawes and Place Ferry
We left on the Place Ferry.
16 04 18  Day 27 (4) St Mawes and Place Ferry
Its only a short 10 minute hop across.
16 04 18  Day 27 (8) St Mawes and Place Ferry
Hair and smiles.
16 04 18  Day 27 (6) St Mawes and Place Ferry
St Anthony Church at Place is late-Norman with a beautiful door.
16 04 18  Day 27 (10) Place
Being spring there were daffodils aplenty.
16 04 18  Day 27 (9) Place
A medieval coffin.
16 04 18  Day 27 (12) Place
It was an overcast day but dry.  Ideal walking weather.  As eagerly anticipated (by me at any rate) St Anthony lighthouse was winking away in the gloom.
16 04 18  Day 27 (15) St Anthony Head
I love the way the wind shapes the direction of shrub growth.
16 04 18  Day 27 (13) St Anthony Head
My final glance at Falmouth looking back across Carrick Roads.
16 04 18  Day 27 (16) St Anthony Head
We walked past St Anthony Head and around the peninsula being, at one stage, only 300m from our landing point an hour or so earlier.

Being by the coast is wonderful.  It's sensory heaven - the sound of the waves and gulls, the sight of the sea and horizon, the smell of the littoral zone, the taste of salt on your lips. I try not to touch much.

I was fascinated by this south facing cove where all the kelp had washed up.
16 04 18  Day 27 (19) Into Portscatho
Our lunch spot was Portscatho.  The cafe was closed however the Plume of Feathers was up and running so we popped in for coffee and a snack.
16 04 18  Day 27 (21) Into Portscatho
It served us the best chips I've had for a long time.  She even shared.
16 04 18  Day 27 (22) Into Portscatho
We marched off, replete, and passed the Lookout Station which looked remarkably like a green wheelie bin from a distance.
16 04 18  Day 27 (23) Portscatho Lookout
There wasn't much flat walking today.  The path was dry and well marked, just not level for much - all too soon we'd descend into a cove and sweep back up onto the cliff tops.  And repeat.

This was a sad sight.  I think it's around Pendower: a forlone closed pub.
16 04 18  Day 27 (24) Pendower Beach
We watched a 'port and starboard' couple stroll across Carne Beach.
16 04 18  Day 27 (25) Carne Beach
16 04 18  Day 27 (27) Into Portloe
We arrived late afternoon in Porthole, a small fishing village with a southwesterly harbour.
16 04 18  Day 27 (29) Into Portloe
Apparently the harbour is so narrow that during the course of 17 years the local life boat had nothing to do.  The approach is too tricky to attempt in a storm so any ailing vessel would shelter elsewhere.
16 04 18  Day 27 (30) Into Portloe
Shame the harbour was empty of locals ;-)
Screen Shot 2016-04-22 at 21.39.59
Porthole Pin-up

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